We flew on a short flight into Ivola, the northernmost airport, and got on a bus to the hotel. Our new guide is taking over from our previous Finn. He will travel with us through the rest of the tour, onto the ship, the train, and into Oslo. But that is in the future…
The day after arriving in Ivola, we rode the bus to Inari, the capital of the Sámi people and the location of Siide, the official museum of the Sámi people, where we had an excellent tour by a local Sámi guide.
Our adequate guide told us a bit about the area on the bus ride, with the local input from our friendly bus driver:
There are several mines in the area, which were sought after by Norway and Germany throughout the years. The mines produce metals, minerals, and radioactive substances.
In 1944, at the end of World War II, Germany had to retreat (they had been holding the mines that are in this part of the country at the time). As they withdrew, the Germans burned everything as they went, leaving no structures behind, including traditional Sámi buildings. So stomach-turning that humans from many parts of the world have chosen to take actions like this!
Inari is one of four Sámi provinces. There are 7,000 Inari Sámi people, with 10,000 native Sámi in total. Lapland is the region where the Sámi people live, extending from the Norwegian Sea mostly above the Arctic Circle: the northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and a small area of Russia, too. The Finnish government support the Sámi in preserving their culture. Yay!
There are about 100,000 reindeer in the area, a big industry for the region and the Sámi people. I saw only one reindeer (which was in the road, staring straight at the bus) and had a glimpse of another in the trees to the side of the road. This is the time of year for the round-up, when the Sámi gather their herds, select the ones for slaughter (and for sale) and drive the rest up into the mountains for the winter months. The Sámi use all parts of the reindeer, from nose to tail, hide, hair, and bone. We had the chance to meet a Sámi woman, a wonderful artist, and a very hard worker! She made new reindeer-hide boots every year for her family, for example, among other items. These are items that are always made by hand and always used within the culture and never sold. Beautiful traditional works of practical art.
The Sámi Museum Siida in Inari, Finland:
Exhibit at the Sámi Museum Siida, Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.Display at the Sámi Museum Siida, Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.Display at the Sámi Museum Siida, Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.This art work built into the floor of the Sámi Museum Siida was created with objects common to the region, signifying the seasons and the available natural resources, Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.Display at the Sámi Museum Siida. The comb-looking items on the left are looms used to make the beautifully ornate belts worn by the Sámi people. Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.
The Open Air Museum at the Sámi Museum Siida in Inari, Finland:
An outdoor kitchen, Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.The interior of an outdoor kitchen, Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.A hearth in a cabin with a cleverly engineered design to keep fingers from being burned when heating up the kettle, Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.View of two rooms in a cabin, including the ‘tent’ over the bed, likely to both keep off insects in the summer and to contain body heat in the winter for a more comfortable sleep, Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.One view of the Open Air Museum section of the Sámi Museum Siida, showing aspects of the cultural and architectural heritage of the Sámi people, Inari, Finland, 5 October 2023.
Masted ships at dock in Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
10,000 years ago, at the end of the last Ice Age, the glaciers retreated leaving lakes and a lot of visible bedrock. The Finnish people were hunters and fishermen.
The area was an eastern province of Sweden from 1200-1809, and even now the two official languages of the country are Finnish and Swedish, which I could see frequently in the dual-language road signs. Finland was never occupied by Sweden, but it was part of the same cultural heritage. Sweden had frequent wars with Russia, with the Finnish people securing the border. The modern country even now has a very long border with Russia.
In 1808-1809, there was a long war between Sweden and Russia, ending with Finland becoming a Grand Duchy of Russia in 1809. Tsar Alexander I decreed that Finland could retain their old Finnish laws and the Lutheran religion. The Finnish senate made laws, which then were ratified by the Tsar to become officially valid in the Grand Duchy.
The Russian Revolution occurred in 1917, the rebels doing away with the entire royal family. There was no longer a tsar. Finland took the opportunity to declare independence from Russia, and Lenin signed off on it. As of December 6, 1917, Finland was an independent nation. To celebrate this, every December 6, at 6 p.m., many Finns place two lit candles, one blue, one white (the colors of the Finnish flag), in the windows of their homes.
Interesting facts I learned from our guide Leena:
One of the stalls at the outdoor market on the pier. Look at those fresh fruit! Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
* In regard to grain and milk, Finland produces 80% of their own food.
* The sea is only 1% salt, so it freezes in the winter. The ice breakers are already prepped and ready for deployment, waiting for winter at the Helsinki port.
* Helsinki is in the top ten of the most livable cities. It touts itself as the most functional city in the world (or at least it will be). Helsinki is undergoing a stage of renovation, to be fully complete in 2030. The new residential areas have apartments for sale at €900/square meter (approx. $900/square yard, i.e., $300/ft2).
* The typical high-rise building in Helsinki is seven stories. Currently the tallest building is 32 stories.
* The current population of Helsinki is 650,000 people.
* Finland’s population is 5.7 million people.
* Forestry was the biggest industry up to the 1970s, making 80% of Finland’s exports. Now, timber makes up only 25%. Currently, Finland’s largest industries is the production of machinery for forestry and shipbuilding, and of course high-tech electronics.
* The Gulf Stream tempers the climate, allowing for 50% of Finland to be forests of pine, spruce, and birch.
* Finland has a conscript army, men joining up a 18, and women volunteering.
* German was taught in schools until the 1950s, and now English tends to be the one that is taught as a third language. Most Finns typically know 2-3 languages.
* Finland recently entered NATO. Prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, 80% of Finns were to interested in NATO. Many minds changed over night, opting now for NATO. Finland has been a member of the EU since 1995.
* Red is a typical color for traditional homes in Finland. The color is derived from a mineral from the ground and helps protect the house from humidity. Yellow houses, are finer, and often larger, with the color signifying that the resident owns the land surrounding building (an estate).
Beautiful Kansalaistori Square in Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
* There are ten tram lines and one metro line in Helsinki. Helsinki has had trams since the 1890s, although at that time the first trams were puled by horses. The current electric trams are all built in Finland, specifically designed for the northern climate.
* Helsinki was founded in 1550 and moved a more accessible location in 1640, so visitors will not find any buildings within city limits now from the 16th century.
* The industries that were housed in the city center, moved to other locations in the 1980s, so the remaining factories and office buildings were converted and are now residences.
Market hall in Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
View of the Sky Wheel and a stone market hall on the dock at Helsinki, Finland, 3 October 2023.
* There are 3 market halls in Helsinki. These are stone buildings, inside of which are many small shops and cafes.
* Almost every family in Helsinki has bicycles and a watercraft.
Unused boats might be turned into cafés, like this red one. You can see Uspenski Cathedral in the background, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
* Areas of the shore are designated for public swimming, and you might see Finns dipping into the sea during any season. In fact, winter sea dipping might be what a Finn does to cool down after visiting one of the public saunas along the shore.
* Every apartment building has a sauna, and residents can book a slot to use the sauna for one hour each week. Some homes have their own private saunas.
Art Nouveau homes, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
* The pastel colored buildings in Helsinki are Art Nouveau houses, with decor inspired by the flora and fauna of the region. The exterior of the buildings must be kept authentic.
Pulpit in the Lutheran Cathedral, Helsinki, Finland, 3 October 2023.Organ in the Lutheran Cathedral, Helsinki, Finland, 3 October 2023.Chandelier in the Lutheran Cathedral, Helsinki, Finland, 3 October 2023.
* The Lutheran religion is the largest practiced faith in Finland. <1% are Greek Orthodox Catholic. Uspenski Cathedral is the Orthodox church in Helsinki.The Helsinki Cathedral is the main Lutheran church in Helsinki, located on Senate Square.
Uspenski Cathedral, Greek Orthodox Church, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.Apse of the Greek Orthodox Catholic church, Helsinki, Finland, 3 October 2023.Dome of the Greek Orthodox Catholic church, Helsinki, Finland, 3 October 2023.
* Senate Square, the main historic square in Helsinki, was commissioned by Tsar Alexander I.
* In 2012, the National Library was built, consolidating all of the books and knowledge of the various departments into one location.
* One-third of Helsinki is made up of green spaces.
The pink granite railway station. You can see two of the statues which guard the entrance. The other two stand on the opposite side of the door, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
* Snow generally arrives in November, and is firmly on the ground by the end of December. Snowy winters last about three months.
* The Railway Station was constructed in 1919 out of pink granite. The four stone men that guard the entrance participate in celebrations and large events. For example, they will be wearing scarves or flags, for example, during holidays or sporting events.
* The Rock Church was designed by two brothers who played a lot as children on the exposed bedrock of their town. The church was built in and part of the bedrock. The copper wire ceiling is made of copper from Finland. The building took two years to construct, and was inaugurated in 1969. Because of the spectacular acoustics, there are often free concerts. The Rock Church is an active Lutheran church. It was getting so many visitors that the congregation decided to start charging an entry fee. The number of visitors increased. The congregation uses the funds to support youth programs in Helsinki.
Passage between nave and living rock in Temppeliaukionkirko, the Rock Church, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.From the clerestory balcony you can take a closer look at the ceiling supports atop the stones atop the living rock, Temppeliaukionkirko, the Rock Church, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.Looking down from the clerestory balcony you can see the beautiful shapes and colors in the living rock, Temppeliaukionkirko, the Rock Church, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.The rounded nave/pulpit/apse of Temppeliaukionkirko, the Rock Church, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
* The city residents were asked what they would like to have or do to celebrate their centennial in 2019, and the people wanted a place where everyone was welcome and could enjoy working and relaxing. So, €300 million was allowed to the design and construction of Oodi, an absolutely spectacular library: made up glass, wood, and stainless steel, the three floors, each with its own purpose and atmosphere, made me wish we could spend all day there.
This spiral staircase at Helsinki Central Library Oodi is inscribed with the names of all of the types of people who are welcome here: namely, everyone. Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.The stacks in the Helsinki Central Library Oodi, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.The angled reading area in the Helsinki Central Library Oodi, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.A view from the angled reading area at Helsinki Central Library Oodi, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.Speckled windows at Helsinki Central Library Oodi help cut the glare of the sun and prevent birds from flying into the glass, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.Looking out of a specked window at the Helsinki Central Library Oodi, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.Look over and past the stacks to see an angled reading area in the Helsinki Central Library Oodi, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
We rode through a terrain of flat landscape and gently rolling hills to Porvoo, the oldest existing town in the area. Even so, the buildings are not as old as they could have been. In 1720, a woman who had been cooking dinner in her kitchen thought the fire was out and went to bed. The flames crackled to life, igniting the house on fire, which spread throughout the entire town. Porvoo had to be rebuilt.
I wonder how the inhabitants at that time reacted to the woman’s simple mistake. I hope there were no lives lost.
Still, the buildings in the old section of town are about 200 years old, far older than anything in Fairbanks, Alaska, or even in much of the United States.
Por is Finnish for castle, and Voo means river, so Provoo means River Castle, or Castle-by-the-River, but the castle no longer exists so we visited only the town.
View of the Porvoo River, with the hill in the distance where the castle once was, Finland, 3 October 2023.
Finland had been part of Sweden at this time, but in the early 19th century it came under Russian rule. I had not fully realized when I booked the trip that Finland shared its eastern border with Russia, and it has been very interesting to learn more about the relationship between the two countries from a Finnish perspective.
Riverfront, Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
In 1809 Tsar Alexander I visited Provo and, in Provo’s church, made a statement that although he was now head of state for Finland, he would not make any governmental changes, such as mandate which religion needed to be worshipped. Finland would remain an autonomous state. While he was there a beautiful local noble, Katharina, caught his eye, and he returned often to visit her and Porvoo. Even though Katharina was nobility, she was too low in the ranking system to be considered a suitable match, and the pair were never wed, and their son was never in line to become tsar of Russia. The boy died at 5-years old in any case, and our guide said there was no further mention of Katharina in historical documents. I wonder if she and Alexander I remained an unwed couple up to or through his officially sanctioned marriage, or if she married a Fin after their son had died.
View of the Porvoo Church from the shore of the river, Finland, 3 October 2023.
We walked up a steep, cobblestoned road to the 15th century church. It had not burned because it was built of stone. I enjoyed absorbing the architectural and decorative beauty of the church’s interior.
Interior view of the nave of the medieval church in Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
View of the clerestory of the medieval church in Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
Looking through a candelabrum to the pulpit in the medieval church in Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
A boat hangs from the ceiling near the transept of the medieval church in Porvoo, Finland. Wives came to pray for their fishermen husbands. I enjoyed looking at the details on the dome’s intrados, the clerestories, and the walls. Do you see the unicorn on the pendentive? 3 October 2023.
It was also fun to walk through the medieval town center, taking in the colors and shapes of the buildings, feeling the variation of the cobblestones beneath my feet. The sounds of the modern area did not reach this far. I wondered what it would be like to be one of the residents who lived here, caring for one of the buildings in this Heritage Site.
A view of the plaza in the medieval section of Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
A cobblestoned street in the medieval section of Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
There is a small, sweet yarn shop next tot he corner shop where th owner sells knitted and painted items along with locally dyed or sourced yarn, Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
Buildings in the 18th century section of Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
A narrow cobblestoned staircase street in Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
Bees are still visiting blooming flowers in Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
Plaza cobblestones, Porvoo, Finland, 3 October 2023.
