Touring Helsinki ~ and Learning More About Finland, Past and Present

Historical Story of Finland:

Masted ships at dock in Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.

10,000 years ago, at the end of the last Ice Age, the glaciers retreated leaving lakes and a lot of visible bedrock. The Finnish people were hunters and fishermen. 

The area was an eastern province of Sweden from 1200-1809, and even now the two official languages of the country are Finnish and Swedish, which I could see frequently in the dual-language road signs. Finland was never occupied by Sweden, but it was part of the same cultural heritage. Sweden had frequent wars with Russia, with the Finnish people securing the border. The modern country even now has a very long border with Russia.

In 1808-1809, there was a long war between Sweden and Russia, ending with Finland becoming a Grand Duchy of Russia in 1809. Tsar Alexander I decreed that Finland could retain their old Finnish laws and the Lutheran religion. The Finnish senate made laws, which then were ratified by the Tsar to become officially valid in the Grand Duchy.

The Russian Revolution occurred in 1917, the rebels doing away with the entire royal family. There was no longer a tsar. Finland took the opportunity to declare independence from Russia, and Lenin signed off on it. As of December 6, 1917, Finland was an independent nation. To celebrate this, every December 6, at 6 p.m., many Finns place two lit candles, one blue, one white (the colors of the Finnish flag), in the windows of their homes.


Interesting facts I learned from our guide Leena:

One of the stalls at the outdoor market on the pier. Look at those fresh fruit! Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.

* In regard to grain and milk, Finland produces 80% of their own food.

* The sea is only 1% salt, so it freezes in the winter. The ice breakers are already prepped and ready for deployment, waiting for winter at the Helsinki port.

* Helsinki is in the top ten of the most livable cities. It touts itself as the most functional city in the world (or at least it will be). Helsinki is undergoing a stage of renovation, to be fully complete in 2030. The new residential areas have apartments for sale at €900/square meter (approx. $900/square yard, i.e., $300/ft2).

* The typical high-rise building in Helsinki is seven stories. Currently the tallest building is 32 stories.

* The current population of Helsinki is 650,000 people.

* Finland’s population is 5.7 million people.

* Forestry was the biggest industry up to the 1970s, making 80% of Finland’s exports. Now, timber makes up only 25%. Currently, Finland’s largest industries is the production of machinery for forestry and shipbuilding, and of course high-tech electronics.

* The Gulf Stream tempers the climate, allowing for 50% of Finland to be forests of pine, spruce, and birch.

* Finland has a conscript army, men joining up a 18, and women volunteering.

* German was taught in schools until the 1950s, and now English tends to be the one that is taught as a third language. Most Finns typically know 2-3 languages. 

* Finland recently entered NATO. Prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, 80% of Finns were to interested in NATO. Many minds changed over night, opting now for NATO. Finland has been a member of the EU since 1995.

* Red is a typical color for traditional homes in Finland. The color is derived from a mineral from the ground and helps protect the house from humidity. Yellow houses, are finer, and often larger, with the color signifying that the resident owns the land surrounding building (an estate).

Beautiful Kansalaistori Square in Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.

* There are ten tram lines and one metro line in Helsinki. Helsinki has had trams since the 1890s, although at that time the first trams were puled by horses. The current electric trams are all built in Finland, specifically designed for the northern climate.

* Helsinki was founded in 1550 and moved a more accessible location in 1640, so visitors will not find any buildings within city limits now from the 16th century.

* The industries that were housed in the city center, moved to other locations in the 1980s, so the remaining factories and office buildings were converted and are now residences.

Market hall in Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.
View of the Sky Wheel and a stone market hall on the dock at Helsinki, Finland, 3 October 2023.

* There are 3 market halls in Helsinki. These are stone buildings, inside of which are many small shops and cafes.

* Almost every family in Helsinki has bicycles and a watercraft.

Unused boats might be turned into cafés, like this red one. You can see Uspenski Cathedral in the background, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.

* Areas of the shore are designated for public swimming, and you might see Finns dipping into the sea during any season. In fact, winter sea dipping might be what a Finn does to cool down after visiting one of the public saunas along the shore.

* Every apartment building has a sauna, and residents can book a slot to use the sauna for one hour each week. Some homes have their own private saunas.

* The pastel colored buildings in Helsinki are Art Nouveau houses, with decor inspired by the flora and fauna of the region. The exterior of the buildings must be kept authentic.

* The Lutheran religion is the largest practiced faith in Finland. <1% are Greek Orthodox Catholic. Uspenski Cathedral is the Orthodox church in Helsinki.The Helsinki Cathedral is the main Lutheran church in Helsinki, located on Senate Square.

* Senate Square, the main historic square in Helsinki, was commissioned by Tsar Alexander I.

* In 2012, the National Library was built, consolidating all of the books and knowledge of the various departments into one location.

* One-third of Helsinki is made up of green spaces.

The pink granite railway station. You can see two of the statues which guard the entrance. The other two stand on the opposite side of the door, Helsinki, Finland, 4 October 2023.

* Snow generally arrives in November, and is firmly on the ground by the end of December. Snowy winters last about three months.

* The Railway Station was constructed in 1919 out of pink granite. The four stone men that guard the entrance participate in celebrations and large events. For example, they will be wearing scarves or flags, for example, during holidays or sporting events.

* The Rock Church was designed by two brothers who played a lot as children on the exposed bedrock of their town. The church was built in and part of the bedrock. The copper wire ceiling is made of copper from Finland. The building took two years to construct, and was inaugurated in 1969. Because of the spectacular acoustics, there are often free concerts. The Rock Church is an active Lutheran church. It was getting so many visitors that the congregation decided to start charging an entry fee. The number of visitors increased. The congregation uses the funds to support youth programs in Helsinki.

* The city residents were asked what they would like to have or do to celebrate their centennial in 2019, and the people wanted a place where everyone was welcome and could enjoy working and relaxing. So, €300 million was allowed to the design and construction of Oodi, an absolutely spectacular library: made up glass, wood, and stainless steel, the three floors, each with its own purpose and atmosphere, made me wish we could spend all day there.

First Full Day in Helsinki, Finland

Although my watch noted the time was about 4 a.m. on October 1, in Finland it was already 3 p.m. — we had flown towards the sunrise, and the current local clock time was eleven hours ahead. 

At the airport, I met Kristian, a man with the Finland-based tour company 50º North Nordic AS, who was holding up a sign that read “University of Alaska Fairbanks”. Other members of the tour group I had signed up for joined us soon after.

One view of Helsinki, showing the Sky Wheel and the Greek Orthodox church with its green and gold roofs, Finland, October 2023.

Kristian drove us to the hotel where we had a free rest of the day. We had to meet for an orientation and dinner the following day, Monday, October 2, so had until then free as well. Most people headed out into the city on Sunday after checking into the hotel, but I was exhausted from getting ready before I departed for the trip and had unwisely not slept except on the plane. I swayed as I walked and it felt like gravity was repeatedly pulling my eyelids down. I knew I needed to sleep if I was going to not get sick on this trip. I was in bed by 6 p.m. local time.

Monday, 2 October 2023

I woke refreshed and ready for the day on Monday. My plan had been to just wander around the city taking in the sites, but a couple of other group members had a specific goal in mind, and invited me, and others, along.

Helsinki, Finland and Anchorage, Alaska are at similar latitudes: Helsinki at 60ºN and Anchorage at  61ºN. Fairbanks, Alaska is at 64ºN. It is warmer here in Helsinki than it was in Fairbanks when I left. I enjoyed being comfortable in a short-sleeved shirt again.

One of the skylights that allow light to reach the subterranean gallery’s entrance hall, 2 October 2023.

We crossed tram tracks and walked on cobblestone sidewalks to Amos Rex, a museum with an underground gallery that currently had a modern art exhibit by Japanese artist Ryoji Ikeda. When paying for the entry fee, my credit card was declined (of course).

I said ‘of course’ because, in my 13-year experience of having this company’s credit card, every time I attempt to pay with my card in a different city for the first time, the fraud department flags the charge and my card is declined — even though I had used that same credit card to purchase the flight or train tickets to take me to that new city! Argh!

Another view of the skylights that allow light to reach the subterranean gallery’s entrance hall. I do not know the purpose of the tower or if it is even connected to the museum Amos Rex, 2 October 2023.

My friend L. had gifted me 20€ before I left, however, so I had cash to pay the entry fee. And after the museum visit I called the company to tell them it really was me who had used the card.

The art exhibit was in an underground gallery with walls and ceiling painted black, and the room was so dark that a person could run into a wall. It took a while for my eyes to adjust. White arrows of light were projected onto the ground at doorways to show which way to walk through the exhibit. It was a combination of art, technology, and science that I had not expected.

The path of my exploration on Suomenlinna, an island group Heritage Site near Helsinki, Finland, 2 October 2023.
This massive stone wall shows that Suomenlinna’s original purpose was as a military fortress, 2 October 2023.

After that, one of the women and I headed out on our own to find the Helsinki City Transport Ferry that would take us over to a fortress island. During its 270-year history Suomenlinna Sea Fortress was ruled by Sweden, Russia and Finland. The Baltic Sea island once housed a Fortress that was designed in 1748 to help fight off Russian invaders, but in 1809 the island became a Russian military base before it was ever truly finished. Russian merchants helped build the island and fortress, adding beautiful buildings. Russia transferred the island to the Finnish government in 1919. Now, the island is not a military base (although I did see a couple of “keep out: military zone” signs on the island). About 800 people live on the island, which has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1991.

One of the buildings on Suomenlinna, 2 October 2023.
Massive chains decorate the courtyard around the church on Suomenlinna. The chains once were used by the Swedish to block the Baltic Sea so no other ships could pass. Photo taken 2 October 2023.
Here you can see remains of anti-aircraft artillery that were used during World War II. Photo taken 2 October 2023.

The buildings are interesting to look at and the grounds are fun to explore. If we had not needed to be back at the hotel for the orientation, we would have stayed and explored more.

Did soldiers walk through this opening to move or operate this anti-aircraft artillery? 2 October 2023.
Entrances to fortification tunnels on Suomenlinna: fun to explore, it’s a good thing I had brought a headlamp with me! 2 October 2023.
The ferry getting ready to leave Suomenlinna for the mainland, 2 October 2023.
Riding the ferry back from Suomenlinna to Helsinki, 2 October 2023.

At the orientation, our local Finnish contact did not show up in person, but Zoomed in instead because she had come down with COVID. Oh, no! She and our group leader from Alaska were in the process of finding someone to take over for her so that 1) she could get well and 2) we would not be exposed to the virus.

Ready to get to know each other and to start our trip, we headed off to a tasty dinner in a local restaurant.

After dinner, three of us crossed the plaza to climb the steep staircase of high stone steps (about 50 of them!), walked around the enormous Lutheran church, and then walked back down the steps and headed ‘home’ to the hotel.

Lutheran Cathedral, Helsinki, Finland, Photo taken 4 October 2023 through a rained-upon bus window.
The view looking downwards from the top of the steps in front of the Lutheran Cathedral, looking out over the square on the night of 2 October 2023.
A view of the exterior of the Lutheran Cathedral, lit up on the night of 2 October 2023.