Sun, clouds, rain, snow, wind, and a combination of all but the first struck against my windshield on the drive home. The sunlight (had I really seen it?) was a glimmer of memory from the school parking lot only ten minutes ago. I kept expecting hail or even graupel to fall (just to round out the list of precipitation types). Slush was forming on the side of the front window where the wipers raced to push the falling aqua, both liquid and fluffily crystalline.
I had chuckled last night when I saw snow falling at midnight, and now I had to laugh out loud. Mother Nature still rules supreme. Us humans have no might in the greater scheme of it all. I push back the irritation of the needy parent, the one who is not letting his daughter grow up taller than the wall of his nest. I let the frustrating indolence and inefficiency of certain of my students evaporate. I forget about the vying workplace personalities and my enervating list of things to do. Instead I listen to the susurration of the snow on my sleeves, breathe deeply, and enjoy the unanticipated beauty of the large, fluffy white flakes falling unruffledly from the gentle gainsboro grey May sky.
4:13 p.m. Clickety-click. Click. The lights pop off. Back on. Then off again. Click, clickety-click, say the electronics as juice reaches their systems again. I shut off the treadmill’s main switch and turn off the small light in the living room. The lights flicker on and off and on again until, in the end, they stay off.
I should have guessed that today there would be electricity problems. I first noticed the rain mid morning. The sound of it on the snow was a relaxing susurration, but icicles had already started forming around the base of my truck and along the underside of telephone and power wires.
Rain should not be falling in December in Alaska, especially after a week and a half of regular snowfall. The man who plows my driveway was here on the 8th, 11th, 17th, 19th, 20th, 23rd, and even early on Christmas Day! That was only yesterday.
The snow kept on falling. I woke up at about 2 a.m. this morning because his son was shoveling snow off my stoop while he plowed the drive. I was surprised to hear him here so early (and again), but there was enough snow to warrant yet another visit. He must also have known about the predicted rainfall. My driveway is thick once again with white and with the rain on top… Plowing a thick snow layer with a hardened crust must tear up snowplow equipment. I hope he’s staying at home and off the roads today. They must be sheathed in ice.
Just like everything else — including the power lines and the spindly spruce trees.
The last time there was winter rain was about five or six years ago. I cannot remember the exact year, but I do recall that it happened just before Thanksgiving and the trees bent under the weight of the ice and pulled down power lines. A couple of coworkers who lived further out of town had no electricity for up to two weeks(!) that time.
Today, by the light of my hurricane lamp, I pull my headlamp from my backpack and locate the phone book to look up the number for the power company. When there is no internet, an “old-fashioned” book will never let me down. I call in my personal power outage and pull on a sweater.
Friends and I text to check in on who has power and who is safe. One friend is cozying under blankets. One friend, with power, says I can come over if I feel safe enough to drive. Another friend, also with power, tells me that the official outage map shows 14,000 homes without electricity from Healy to Fairbanks in one direction and to Harding Lake in the other. A lot more than 14,000 people live in that number of homes, including her daughter’s and nieces’ families (and me).
As I sit here typing I realize that many people who are ensconced in their own, full-electricity, worlds may not understand the dangers of living in Alaska without power.
The boiler will not flame on until the electricity is restored, and the water pump will not work either, which will perhaps work to my advantage because if the electricity does not come on before the outdoor temperature starts to drop this evening, I may need to drain the water out through the pipes so if my house freezes there will be less risk of bursting pipes. Of course, I will shut off the pump’s breaker on the panelboard anyway if I have to take that step.
Most, like me, do not have a built-in alternate source of heat. I would love a fireplace or wood stove, but installing one would be too time- and cost-intensive for the kind of home I have. If the indoor temperature becomes too low I will dig a path into the shed to pull out the space heater and the tank of propane so I can stay warm enough this evening to monitor the house and get a restless sleep.
My Internet service is of course down at home, so I cannot access news on the computer. I have no Internet access through my phone, other than Wi-Fi services, which of course are currently reacting as if they were never invented. I opted not to install a landline in this house once I learned that all of the telephone company’s services are fully digital, meaning that when power goes out, so does my landline. Thus, once my cell phone dies I will have no way to call if I need emergency services — and I won’t be able to know if friends will need help either.
The radio also naturally does not work. My mother sent me my 1990s ‘boom box’ last summer so I do have its battery-operated option for the radio if I need it, but I’m kind of enjoying the quiet without a backdrop of an electric hum.
The benefit of the rain — if I put a positive spin on it — is that the temperature is relatively warm. The thermometer outside my front door reads 32ºF, which makes sense because the sky air temperature must be above freezing for it to even rain. The house will hold its temperature so much better than it would have done eleven days ago when there was a negative sign (-) in front of that number.
I mull over the idea of driving to my friend’s house, or to see if a coffee shop is open so I can plug in my phone and have a warm meal. The rain is still sprinkling. The rain has soaked through, making the snow too wet to sweep, as I would normally have done. So, I shovel it off instead. The most recent snowfall has created a ground layer as deep as the bottom step is tall.
Water is dripping down the side of my truck, from the rain as much as from the warming-up truck. I do like autostart. The thick blanket of snow, heavy now with moisture, has started to slide off of the hood in broken-off slabs.
The crusted snow crunches loudly under my feet. I can still push the long snow brush along the top of the truck, and the loose snow falls off the other side. The hardened crust is a roof to the hollowed out snow tunnel I have made.
After the truck is cleaned off and the windows and headlights scraped clean of ice and slush, it’s time to shovel out the wheels. I do this already knowing that I’m not going to head over to my friend’s. The icy layer atop the driveway’s snow glistens too prettily for a safe drive.
A conical pile has developed around the fill pipe to my heating oil tank. If more snow falls, or falls from the roof above, the pipe might be buried, and if the wet snow freezes over night, I wonder if the fuel truck driver, slated to arrive tomorrow, will be able to access it. Plus, I want to reduce the chance for snow and water to dribble inside. I punch through the iciness around the pipe and smoothly brush away the light snow beneath.
5:30 p.m. My cell phone’s battery just died.
What time will the electricity come back on?
What to do for dinner…? I’m a little peckish, but I’m sure that I don’t actually need to eat. In 2020, 66.7% of adult Americans were overweight or obese to some degree, and surely that number hasn’t reduced much since then. I can go without food until breakfast. Then, again, there is a sense of exciting adventure to having to cook dinner at home on a camp stove.
I set everything up outside, in part because I hear tales of people who perished because they used propanes stoves indoors (although most likely in smaller square footage and more than just one meal), but mostly because I don’t often get to to sit out on the deck in winter — certainly not at these warm temperatures! It’s too bad the clouds block the starlight.
While I stare into the night and listen to its silence, the water starts to heat up in pot. Bundled up in the camp chair the only sounds are the steady whooshing of the blue flames and the intensifying, but muted roil of the liquid.
6:47 p.m. The blue tinted landscape turns a dirty golden as the light on the house across the road bursts on. I can hear the purr of the boiler from the back of my house. I reenter, turn on the stove to boil water for tea, and plug in the phone, which lights up showing 69%. Replying to texts is the next thing I do in case people were worried about why I had stopped in the midst of conversations. A wise friend asked if I have a charger in my truck. Of course! Why didn’t I think of that?
Probably because I was not too concerned at that moment about being device-less. It’s nice to enjoy the view without the hum or beeps of electricity.
Clickety-click. Click.
Two straining flickers and the lights shut off again. The boiler is silent. The cell phone rings.
The power company’s automated services asks if I have had my power restored, and I press 2 for no.
6:51 p.m. I start the truck’s engine and use the charger to boost the phone’s battery up to 100% before returning to the porch and its camp chair. I eat the yummy re-hydrated chicken breast and mashed potatoes with a bread knife and a long-handled spoon while I try to soak up the grey night.
7:23 p.m. The bulbs brighten and the lights stay on this time, and while I am relieved that I don’t have to worry about the house, I am a little disappointed that I cannot continue enjoying the quiet of the true world. Someone opens a front door and I hear the chatter of a television show through the night. I retreat indoors, closing my own door behind me, and in a matter of minutes, I can, regrettably, barely remember the feel of a natural nightfall.
At first glance, the Lake appears calm, with few seeking pleasure from its waters on this hot summer Thursday. Out on the lake there are a couple of water skiers, and a child sitting in a green tube being pulled mindfully by a boat, but the few other watercraft seem to be heading purposefully straight across from point A to B.
For me, it will be an active work day at the Lake. Today, I am to help finish painting the cabin’s railing and begin on the windows. I am to learn, too, that many others are also working here, but surprisingly… most have wings…
In the birdhouse under the eave, tree swallow chicks wait for momma and papa to bring collected mosquitoes and other protein. The adults’ black wing feathers flash cobalt blue in the sun as the avians dart busily back and forth.
A few prehistoric dragonflies skim through the air near shore, also stalking insects, while out in the middle of the lake a couple of mew gulls wheel, then dip to the surface, catching lunch, or perhaps teaching their young how to fish. There are more mew gulls flying about today than ever seen here together before.
A black military helicopter turns tight circles and buzzes the open water — testing the pilot or perhaps the machine. (I muse later if it has in fact been scouting ahead for the floatplanes.)
A neighbor walks out into the lake to do some underwater mowing. He tosses a long-handled T-shaped metal object smoothly and surely like a fisherman tosses out his line. The man tows it toward him with the ease of repetition, then casts it ahead again. The perpendicular blades on the end of the handle cut the unwanted reeds near the sandy lakebed. The man gathers these mown reeds and takes them ashore. Will they become compost or go directly to the transfer site with the rest of his garbage..?
A bald eagle soars overhead to land in a preferred perch, a sprucetop two houses over, from which it surveys its domain for a tasty nibble, perhaps for itself or perhaps for its young.
The unmistakable whining roar of a two-engine aircraft growls suddenly overhead — so close! The white airplane circles to the opposite side of the lake, and we realize that there are two. The Lake watercraft turn off their engines. The floatplanes come in ostensibly for a landing — but that is not why they are here: water fills their pontoons, slowing their progress across the surface, visibly making it harder for them to take-off (their ascent is markedly more gradual than their approach), but they do lift off. The planes, now loaded with liquid cargo, head in the direction of the forest fire near Munson Creek. About an hour later they are back, flying again directly over the cabin before circling and dipping into the water without a pause.
By the time it is time to call it a day, my work is not done, and I’ll be back again sometime soon to join the others still a-work at their daily labors.
A yummy lunch, a doze in the warmth, the waves gushing at the shore when a boat speeds by: It’s a lovely Sunday at the Lake.
Three hours of helping paint a railing bestowed me a day of sun, diverting conversation, laughter, and the chance to assist good friends — along with the satisfactory transformation of posts, once ragged and peeling, now a pretty grey the color of the deck, a grey that disappears in the mind’s eye when I look out over the water.
Amid the labor of love, the day is full of moments of both tranquility and urgency.
A single sailboat cons silently, softly, back and forth, taking advantage of the gentle wind.
Two motorboats pile on the steam towards a boat vomiting a billow of white smoke — once, twice — but after a brief exchange, the concerned neighbors pilot away and the river boat putters off, unsunk. Four lines dangle off long poles and we wonder if the fishermen (and one woman) have a barbecue unwisely aboard their floating bark.
The blue surface sparkles in the sun. Rays blaze hotly down on our skin as we cruise along the shore in the pontoon boat and take in the relaxing view.
A water skier makes the smooth glides to and fro seem easy inside the fringe of refreshing white spray kicked up by the tempo.
Three personal watercraft buzzum by, two each ejecting a stream of water behind. The cloudless azure sky draws my eye, then I gaze leisurely downward to see the third PWC tootling back along the shoreline, while the zippier ones end up bouncing like ping-pong balls on vacation off of the peaked wake of a heavier, larger craft.
The balance between speed and leisure is present all day long, even close to the wee hours of the morning when I am on my way into town. A lithe red fox stands, relaxed, at the side of the road, and, after I have hurtled past, it calmly crosses all four lanes of the Richardson Highway, leaving me with a serene sense of wonder all of the way back home.
When in the depressive depths of unappreciated work, a sense of hopelessness, nothing does more to fill and rebalance my soul than natural beauty.
Wide Alaskan skies imbue me with peace: the clouds manifest beauty, the colors shine, the clear air refreshes. Even when the wind currents above roil and churn, the clouds still evoke tranquility for me. At times the harmony between sky and sun causes the firmament to shift color, delighting my mind’s eye and marveling my perspective. The sky is ever changing yet always constant. Amid the alterations the sky is unfluctuating. It accepts the changes as part of itself and remains. Endlessly…
For you, a gallery of photos of Alaskan autumn skies. May the views fill you with peace and hopeful prospect.